North of the Rio Cuale, the city changes. The cobblestones are older, the streets narrower, the cathedral bells ring through everything. This is Centro — the original Puerto Vallarta, founded in 1851, named after a governor nobody remembers. It is where locals still live, still buy bread, still go on Sundays.
The cathedral and the plaza
The Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe is the image on every postcard — the filigreed iron crown above the bell tower, a detail commissioned in 1965 and copied from the Empress Carlota's actual crown. The Plaza de Armas in front of it is where mariachi bands warm up before paid gigs. Bring a paleta, sit on a bench, watch.
Rio Cuale island
The small island in the middle of the river is the border between Centro and the Zona Romántica. The market is mostly tourist, but the coffee bar at the east end (La Palapa de Mayo) is where locals go. Walk the south path at sunset. The iguanas on the rocks are harmless.
Gringo Gulch
Up the hill from the cathedral is the old expat enclave where Burton and Taylor owned houses connected by a stone footbridge. The bridge is still there. You can tour Casa Kimberley (Taylor's house) on weekdays. It is cheesier than it should be and you will enjoy it more than you expected to.